Jaipur: Journey to the Pink City
So, why visit Jaipur? We loved it so much we’ve visited twice! The vibrant capital of Rajasthan is fondly known as the Pink City. It’s a city where history feels alive, where every corner reveals a new marvel—from the majestic Amber Fort to the intricate, highly photographed Hawa Mahal to it’s treasure trove of crafts, jewels, and colourful markets.
As part of the famed “Golden Triangle,” Jaipur is well-equipped to cater to tourists, offering an array of restaurants and bars to explore after a day of sightseeing.
For those planning their own Jaipur adventure, we’ve put together two itineraries:
Recommended Itinerary
Just a quick note: Trying to do everything in 2 days will be very hurried. We also do not recommend the “See everything Jaipur has to offer in one day” tours… you can’t.
Day 1: Arrival and First Impressions
Touching down in Jaipur, we were immediately struck by something – where were all the pink buildings? The famous pink hues are largely contained within the walled old town.
Our home for the next few days was the Sawai Man Mahal hotel, nestled in the grounds of the legendary Rambagh Palace. As we approached, passing the Rajasthan Polo Club, the city’s royal history began to unfold. The connection between the Jaipur royal family and the “Sport of Kings” is proudly displayed in photos and memorabilia found in the former royal residences.
Welcomed with drums and rose petals – the type of welcome you begin to expect from a top Taj Hotel. Although the Sawai Man Mahal is a new addition (it opened in 2021), it incorporates historic buildings from the Rambagh Palace, blending modern luxury with traditional Rajasthani charm. The Ganesha Pol, or Ganesh Gate, which once graced the City Palace, now hangs in the hotel reception, a fitting symbol of Jaipur’s rich heritage and a perfect start to our journey.
Jaipur’s connection with Franco’s Spain
The last ruling Maharaja or Jaipur, Sawai Man Singh II, served as the Indian Ambassador to Spain during Francisco Franco’s dictatorship in the 1960s. During that time Princess Carmen Franco, Francisco’s wife, visited Jaipur. Fascinating photographs of this era are on display at the Taj hotel which bears his name.
Lunch and Exploring the Old Town
Sinead had done her homework and found the perfect spot for our first meal in Jaipur—the Townsend Bar & Kitchen, just around the corner from our hotel.
The food was delicious, the surroundings were lovely, the cocktails were spot on—the ideal way to ease ourselves into an unforgettable weekend.
Refreshed and ready to explore, we hopped into a tuk-tuk and headed to the Old Town, the perfect way to get a feel of the city. As we zoomed through the streets, we passed the Albert Hall Museum, a stunning example of Jaipur’s architectural fusion of Indian and European styles. Though we didn’t have time to visit, it’s a good option if you’re in the city for longer. You can also find out about the Albert Hall’s most famous resident here: Interesting Facts and Quirky Tales of Jaipur.
The Walled Old Town
Our journey took us through the New Gate, an 18th-century passageway that serves as the gateway to the old walled city. As we entered, we were transported into a world of bustling, terracotta-hued streets. Yes, you heard that right—terracotta! While the city’s nickname suggests a rosy pink, the actual colour palette leans more toward earthy tones, created by generation after generation adding layer after layer of pink paint.
One of the most surprising things about the old town is how well laid out it is. The city’s nine blocks, symbolizing the divisions of the universe according to Vastu Shastra (an ancient science of architecture popular with the city’s founder Sawai Jai Singh II), are still visible today, divided by wide, symmetrical streets lined with small shops.
Our first stop was the Johari Bazaar, the heart of Jaipur’s jewellery trade. With its historic connection to the gemstone trade, this is the place to go if you’re in the market for something sparkly. We did a little window shopping—well, more like post-cocktail browsing—and soaked in the vibrant atmosphere.
Jewellery Shopping Tip
Jaipur’s jewellery is undeniably beautiful, often featuring uncut gemstones in intricate designs. But remember, Jaipur is a major tourist hub, so prices can reflect that. If you’re unsure about what you want or how much you should pay, it might be worth waiting until you get home to visit a store like Amrapali, which has branches in other major cities like Bengaluru.
The Hawa Mahal: A Pinch-Me Moment
Seeing one of India’s iconic marvels in person was one of those “pinch me” moments that made the whole trip feel surreal. The Hawa Mahal, with its distinctive honeycomb façade and hundreds of small windows, soars above the neighbouring buildings.
But here’s the thing about the Hawa Mahal—while its facade is absolutely stunning, the interior is surprisingly plain. We ventured inside, expecting to be wowed, but quickly realized it is all about the outer beauty. This makes sense when you consider its original purpose: to allow the royal ladies to observe the street life below without being seen themselves. It backs onto the City Palace, so it didn’t need to provide the typical accommodations or audience spaces you’d expect from a grand palace.
A few interesting features stood out during our visit:
- The five floors are connected by ramps, not stairs. This allowed the queens and princesses, dressed in heavy traditional attire, to move around comfortably in palanquins (covered litters carried by hand-bearers).
- The Ratan Mandir (Gem Temple) on the second floor is home to brightly coloured stained glass windows. The sunlight streaming through the glass illuminated the semi-precious stones inlaid in the walls, creating a dazzling effect.
- From the top floors, we enjoyed close up views of the chhatris (the distinctive domes) and sweeping views of the City Palace and the Jantar Mantar. I couldn’t wait to visit the Jantar Mantar—it was the perfect appetiser for what was to come!
Dinner at Bar Palladio
After a day of exploring, we were ready for a special dinner, and Bar Palladio did not disappoint. Jaipur is a major stop on the tourist circuit, and this chic restaurant is a favourite among visitors. With its Italian-inspired decor and a slight nod to Mughal architecture, Bar Palladio is elegant. The food, mostly European with a strong Italian influence, was just as impressive as the surroundings.
Thanks to Sinead’s planning, we had booked ahead and were lucky enough to snag an indoor table. The vibrant, beautiful interior made for a memorable dining experience. Definitely a must-visit if you’re in Jaipur, we’ve twice, and do make a reservation.
Day 2: Amber Fort and Beyond
A big sightseeing day, so we started early. We had booked a guide and car, a strategy we highly recommend to make the most of your time. Amit, our guide, was waiting for us at 7:30 a.m., ready to whisk us away on a day of adventure.
The Amber Palace is about a 30-minute drive from our hotel. We retraced some of our steps from Day 1, passing through the Old City and alongside Man Sagar Lake, where the Jal Mahal (Water Palace) floats serenely on the water. The Amber Fort soon loomed into view, perched high on a hill across from the man-made lake that once served as a moat. We stopped for a photo at a popular vantage point, where the morning sun was just right for capturing the fort’s imposing beauty.
Sadly, despite the warning signs there aren’t any crocodiles in the lake any longer! They used to be a deterrent to invading forces but today we, and hundreds of other visitors, are the only intruders.
We were given the option of approaching the fort on elephant back or by car. We chose the car, which is quicker, much more humane, and allowed us to make a stop at the Panna Meena Ka Kund, a lovely stepwell perfect for photos.
Panna Meena Ka Kund: A Photographic Gem
Our first encounter with a stepwell, this ancient site is a hidden gem, with its mesmerizing symmetry and intricate design. The stepwell’s primary purpose was to provide water access regardless of the water level, but today, it’s an photographer’s dream.
If you are in Jaipur for several days then one of the biggest, and oldest, stepwells in India is Chand Baori. It is 3 hours away from here, and in the direction of Agra and Delhi if you are doing The Triangle.
Amber Fort: A Journey Through Time
Amber Fort is a vast complex with layers upon layers of history to explore. We entered through the main courtyard, the Jaleb Chowk, which was once the bustling heart of the fort’s public life. The Sun Gate, bathed in the morning light, offered a grand entrance, overlooking the Saffron Garden, a carefully cultivated area for growing the precious spice.
Passing through the impressive Ganesh Gate, we entered the private palace area, starting with the Diwan-i-Aam, or Hall of Public Audience. This was where the Maharaja would meet his subjects and settle disputes.
But the highlight for us was undoubtedly the Sheesh Mahal, or Mirror Palace. Thousands of tiny mirrors and glass are inlaid into every surface, creating dazzling mosaics that catch the light from every angle. All the glass was imported from Belgium in the 16th century, showcasing the global connections and wealth of the Jaipur royals. Amit gave us a little light show with his phone’s torch, trying to mimic the candlelit shimmer that must have made the palace truly magical at night. An admirable attempt, but I’m sure it was not quite the same. He did however know his angles and took dozens of photos of our reflection through various different mirrors!
We spent about two hours exploring the fort, delving into the various meeting and living spaces. The women’s quarters, with their interconnected rooms and courtyards, were particularly fascinating. Each suite was identical and symmetrical, ensuring equality among the queens—a real insight into the social structure of the time.
As we wandered, a maintenance man beckoned us to a restricted area, showing us some ceiling frescoes and a well-rehearsed trick for taking our photos with these as a backdrop. While I applaud his entrepreneurship, and tipped accordingly, it’s something to be aware of—these unofficial guides can be a bit overwhelming if you’re traveling solo.
Jaigarh Fort: Military Might and Majestic Views
A short drive from Amber Fort, this fort was built with military purposes in mind. The battlements and watchtowers are imposing, a testament to the fort’s role in protecting Amber Fort below.
It’s most famous features is the Jaivana Canon, believed to be the largest wheeled cannon ever made. There’s a interesting story behind why it never saw battle action, which you can read about here: Interesting Facts and Quirky Tales of Jaipur. Even if military history isn’t your thing, the views from Jaigarh Fort are worth the visit alone, offering a commanding perspective over Amber Fort and the surrounding valley.
Jaigarh Fort also has a hidden network of passageways, some leading all the way to Nahargarh Fort. These were intended as escape routes in times of siege, though they’re not accessible to visitors today. The fort’s strategic location high above Amber Fort would have made it nearly impossible to conquer, a fact that adds to its mystique
Nahargarh Fort: A View from Above
Our final fort stop was Nahargarh Fort, perched above the city of Jaipur. By now, the sun was high, and we were starting to feel the heat despite it only being January! We didn’t spend as much time here, but the fort’s location offers sweeping views over Jaipur, particularly the old town.
The Madhavendra Bhawan inside the fort is another example of symmetrical design, with identical suites for each of the queens, just like in Amber Fort. Walking around the roof, peering into the different rooms, gave us a better sense of the layout and how the royal family lived.
Jal Mahal: A Photo-Op Stop
After exploring the forts, we made a quick stop at the Jal Mahal, the famous Water Palace that sits serenely in the middle of Man Sagar Lake. I have to admit, I had high expectations for this iconic sight, and I was a disappointed to learn that you can’t actually visit the palace itself. So, our experience was limited to a photo opportunity from the shore.
The Jal Mahal is a five-story palace, with four of those stories submerged in the lake. It was originally built in the 18th century as a hunting lodge and summer retreat for the royal family, designed to keep them cool in the searing Rajasthani heat. During droughts, when the water level drops, more of the palace becomes visible, but it’s always mostly underwater.
The promenade in front of the Jal Mahal was buzzing with tourists, all trying to capture the perfect shot. Trinket traders were out in force, and boatmen were offering “cruises” on the lake to get a closer look at the palace. We passed on both, deciding that the view from the shore was good enough.
Lunch at The Verandah at Rambagh Palace
By mid-afternoon, we were ready to head back to the hotel to freshen up. Amit dropped us off, and after a quick break, we strolled over to The Verandah at the Rambagh Palace for a leisurely lunch.
The Rambagh Palace, built in 1835, was one of the first royal palaces in India to be converted into a hotel, way back in 1957. It’s still as regal as ever, with a history that oozes from every corner. The walls are lined with photographs of famous visitors, from British royalty to Jacqueline Kennedy and Oprah Winfrey—arguably the closest thing America has to royalty!
Lunch at The Verandah was exactly what we needed—relaxed, casual, and al fresco. We enjoyed the food, the beautiful surroundings, and the antics of the peacocks that roam the palace grounds. Fun fact: the collective noun for peacocks is “an ostentation,” (I had to look that up!) which is fitting given how they strut around with such pride.
The Monkey Temple: A Hidden Gem
After lunch, we decided to visit the Monkey Temple, despite our guide’s attempts to dissuade us. Amit kept telling us it was just a ruin, but we were intrigued. I’m so glad we stuck to our guns!
The temple, known as Galta Ji, is a bit of a drive from the city, and as we approached, we started to see why Amit was skeptical. The buildings were derelict, the walls were cracked, and the paths were muddy. But as we ventured further, the place took on a strange, haunting beauty.
The temple is overrun by macaques and langurs, giving it the nickname “Monkey Temple.” Believed to have been built in the 18th century, a series of interconnected ponds and temples stretching up the valley. Dedicated to the sage Galav, who meditated here and was rewarded by the gods with a spring of holy water.
As we climbed higher, the ruins became more captivating, and we realized we were the only visitors. The spring-fed ponds add to the temple’s mystical atmosphere. As the source of the permanent flow of water is a mystery, local legend is that it is the Ganges itself. This explains the lines of clothing hanging over walls to dry: after 13 days of morning the death of a family member it is tradition to discard clothing into holy water.
This experience will stay with us for a long time. There’s something deeply moving about this abandoned, yet beautiful temple complex, a place where time seems to stand still.
Don’t encourage the monkeys
Here are a few tips to avoid unwanted attention:
1 – Don’t feed them. There are more monkeys than you have food!
2 – Leave belongings in the car. Hold tight to anything you bring with you, like cameras or sunglasses.
3 – Avoid making eye contact. Especially with macaques—they see it as a challenge.
Photo by Shashank Hudkar on Unsplash
Dinner at Steam
Steam is also in the grounds of the Rambagh Palace. The train is a reproduction of a vintage steam engine with opulent Victorian era interiors. We sat outside, warmed by big fire barrels as temperatures dropped significantly as night set in, and sang along to the excellent live music.
Day 3: The City Palace: Royal Splendour in the Heart of Jaipur
We woke to heavy rain, which came and went all day, but we were not going to let that dampen our spirits. We had saved the City Palace for our last morning in Jaipur. The palace complex is a blend of Mughal and Rajasthani architecture, with intricate carvings, vivid colours, and expansive courtyards.
The entire Royal block stands out in the middle of the Pink City… for being yellow! Yellow is associated with royalty, opulence, and sanctity in Indian culture.
Our first stop was the Mubarak Mahal, or Welcome Palace, an impressive building that now houses a small museum of royal clothing and textiles. These are very similar to the obligatory textile and armoury museums in most Indian cities and hence we didn’t spend too long here, preferring to explore the more unique aspects of the palace.
One of the highlights was the Diwan-i-Aam, the Hall of Public Audience, where the Maharaja would have held court. The beautiful pillars and symmetrical archways made for some great photo opportunities, and we were particularly intrigued by the world’s largest silver vessels on display here. These enormous urns, weighing nearly 350 kilos each, were made from 14,000 melted silver coins—there’s a fascinating story behind them, which we’ve covered in a separate blog post.
Chandra Mahal: The Heart of the City Palace
The Chandra Mahal, located in the heart of the City Palace complex, remains the residence of Jaipur’s royal family. The inner courtyard, with its famous gates (Ridhi Sidhi Pol), is another photographer’s dream. Each gate represents one of the four seasons, with the Peacock Gate (symbolizing the monsoon) being the most popular. Getting that “perfect shot” requires a bit of patience, as everyone else visiting has the same idea!
Jantar Mantar: A UNESCO World Heritage Site
As a bit of a geek, I was particularly excited about visiting the Jantar Mantar. This UNESCO World Heritage Site houses the world’s largest sundial. And let me tell you—it’s huge! Standing 70 feet tall, the sundial measures time accurately to the nearest two seconds.
It’s mind-boggling to think that this level of precision was achieved nearly 300 years ago. A testament to the affluence and scientific curiosity of the time.
But there’s more to Jantar Mantar than just the sundial. The site is filled with a variety of astronomical instruments, each with a specific purpose. A fascinating glimpse into the scientific achievements of ancient India.
I could have spent ages here but I could see that Sinead was itching to move on, and, I’ve got to be honest the rain was becoming a problem. I did sneak back later to take some photos with the sun!
Lunch at The Palace Café Restaurant
We wrapped up our visit to the City Palace with lunch at The Palace Café Restaurant. The food was fine, nothing to write home about, but the setting was lovely. It was the perfect spot to relax and reflect on our morning of exploration.
Shopping: Blue Pottery and Block Printing
After lunch, it was time to repay Sinead for her patience at the Jantar Mantar with a little shopping! Jaipur is famous for its crafts, particularly Blue Pottery and Block Printing, and we were eager to check out both.
Jaipur Blue Pottery
First up was Blue Pottery, a craft that has been synonymous with Jaipur for over 300 years. To learn more check out Discovering Jaipur Blue Pottery.
We made our way to the Jaipur Blue Pottery Art Centre, located just outside the Old City on Amer Road. This spot is a must-visit if you’re interested in this beautiful art form. It’s still owned and operated by one of the artisan families who played a crucial role in reviving Jaipur Blue Pottery in the mid-20th century when it was on the brink of disappearing. The history alone is fascinating, and the craftsmanship is simply stunning.
We were on the hunt for a set of dinner plates, so they took us around the corner to their factory where they store extra stock. As a bonus, we got to see one of the uncles hard at work, crafting more plates by hand. They also gave us the standard demo, walking us through the raw materials and the intricate process that goes into making each piece. It’s clear they take a lot of pride in their work.
We ended up selecting a variety of plates, and they arranged for delivery straight to Bengaluru. The whole process was super smooth—our plates arrived just three days later! A little tip, though: while these plates are gorgeous, they can be prone to chipping, so handle with care if you’re planning to use them as dinnerware. Each plate also has a small hole in the back, perfect for wall-mounting as decorative pieces.
Block Printing
Next, we headed to Ridhi Sidhi Textiles, just a stone’s throw away from the Jaipur Blue Pottery Art Centre. If you’re into Block Printing, this place is a goldmine. The variety of patterns and colours is mind-boggling, and the prices are pretty reasonable too. We were blown away by the sheer number of options—this is the kind of place where you’ll want to set aside some time to browse.
For those looking to splurge a little on high-end boutique shopping, we also recommend checking out the arcade near Narain Niwas, which is close to Bar Palladio. It’s the perfect spot to pick up something a bit more unique and luxurious, adding a touch of Jaipur’s elegance to your collection.
Gaitore: The Royal Cremation Site
Our final sightseeing stop was Gaitore, the royal cremation site located in a serene valley just outside Jaipur.
The full name is Gaitore Ki Chhatriyan, but it’s commonly referred to as Gaitore. Here, you’ll find the cenotaphs (chhatris) of Jaipur’s Maharajas, each one unique in its carvings and designs.
The site is peaceful and not too crowded, making it an ideal spot to reflect on the city’s rich history. We didn’t spend too long here, but it was a lovely place to get some photos and take in the tranquil surroundings.
Patrika Gate: A Modern Marvel
On our way to the airport, we made a quick stop at Patrika Gate. A striking modern monument which draws inspiration from Jaipur’s historic architecture. Patrika Gate was only built in 2016, but it has quickly become a popular photo spot, especially for newlyweds and soon-to-be-weds.
We were happy to snap a few photos ourselves, but if it hadn’t been on the way to the airport, we might not have gone out of our way to visit. Still, it’s a beautiful spot, and I’m glad we made the stop.
And there you have it—our vibrant voyage through Jaipur! This city, with its rich history, stunning architecture, and warm hospitality, has truly captured our hearts. We can’t wait to return and discover even more of what this incredible city has to offer.
Safe travels, and happy exploring!
