Discovering Varanasi and Sarnath: A Tale of Mystical Ghats and Buddhist Heritage
When people ask us about our favourite place in India, our answer is immediate: Varanasi. This city is unlike any other, wrapped in mystery and steeped in spirituality. I wouldn’t necessarily describe myself as a spiritual person, there’s something about Varanasi that you feel deeply and which lingers long after you’ve left.
Before diving into the details of our magical visit, let me share a little backstory that led us here.
“The Universe Told Us to Go to Varanasi”
Varanasi had always intrigued me, but honestly, it wasn’t high on our list to visit. We’d read and watched plenty about it over the years, and the reviews were… mixed, to say the least. Words like chaotic, overwhelming, filthy, and smelly were often used to describe it. So, when we moved to India, Varanasi was far down on our travel list.
But then something serendipitous happened. We met an elderly English couple during our Diwali trip to Udaipur, at the Lake Palace hotel. They were delightful, sharing stories over a few drinks about their 48-day adventure in India to celebrate their retirement. We bid them farewell, thinking we’d never see them again.
A month later, we were escaping the Bengaluru monsoon for a quick 36-hour trip to Hyderabad. On our way back to the airport, we stopped at the Falaknuma Palace for afternoon tea. And who do we bump into? The same couple! What are the chances? Over more drinks, they raved about their highlight: Varanasi. Sinead was convinced that the universe was sending us a message: Varanasi became our next stop.
Be Prepared
Varanasi is one of those places you either love or hate. To help you fall into the “love it” camp, here are a few tips:
- Hire a guide and driver. Organize this ahead of time through someone reputable. Varanasi is not a city to navigate solo on your first visit. You’ll get lost, show up at the wrong time, and likely get more hassle than you bargained for.
- Pick your timing wisely. We flew out on January 1st, and the cooler weather likely helped dampen the infamous smells. The mist that hung in the air the entire time we were there only added to the atmosphere. Winter seems like the best time to visit Varanasi.
- Be cautious about where you eat and drink. The city’s water comes from the Ganges and is treated with chlorine, which your system isn’t used to. We only ate at our hotel to avoid any issues.
- Get “acclimatized” to Varanasi. Remember how it took a little while to get used to the hustle and bustle of India when you first move here? Well, Varanasi is the next step. If you’re bringing friends or family who are new to India, ease them in with other destinations first. Varanasi can be a lot to take in.
Now, on to the memorable experiences from our trip.
Recommended Itinerary in Varanasi
If you are willing to put in late evenings and early mornings you can get a fantastic Varanasi and Sarnath experience in 2 full days (48 hours). You can do it at a more relaxed pace if you can spare an extra day.
Day 1: Arrival and First Impressions
Varanasi’s airport is primarily for military purposes, with relatively few commercial flights. Luckily, Bengaluru has a direct flight landing in the late afternoon. Because of a slight delay, we were grateful for a super quick journey through the airport, as we wanted to start our trip with the Ganga Aarti and did not want to miss the start.
First impressions: cold. Yes, we knew it was winter, and Varanasi is up north, but the weather forecast had promised sunny skies and 15 degrees. Instead, thick mist blanketed everything, keeping the temperature about 5 degrees cooler.
As we drove into town, we noticed something striking: the kites. The festival of Makar Sankranti is on the 14th January and is clearly embraced far more here than in the South.
Makar Sankranti
This celebrates the transition of the sun into Capricorn, symbolising the end of winter and welcoming of new crops. Kite flying is a traditional activity at this festival, symbolising the reach for aspiration and success.
We arrived at the Taj Ganges, quickly checked in, and layered on every warm piece of clothing we had brought—two light jumpers in my case! Back in the car, we headed towards the river.
First Sight of the Ganges
January 1st is apparently an auspicious day for the Ganga Aarti. But then again, I get the impression many days are considered auspicious here! The police had blocked cars from entering the old town due to the sheer number of people heading to the river on foot.
We joined the throng—a mix of barefoot pilgrims, family groups, and the occasional sadhu (more on them later).
Traders were hawking everything from trinkets to large white plastic canisters, which I later realised was for collecting holy Ganges water. The atmosphere was joyous; it felt like we were all invited to the same massive party.
As we approached the river, the chanting grew louder, some from the crowd and some piped in over loudspeakers from nearby temples. I was grateful for our guide, Mr. Kameshwar, who expertly navigated us through the maze of people to ensure we didn’t miss a moment of the Aarti.
Suddenly, the buildings gave way to steps leading down to the river. The mist was so thick that it was hard to distinguish between the river, the bank opposite and the sky. For a surreal moment, I thought I saw a camel on the river—I was already succumbing to the magic of Varanasi.
Ganga Aarti
The Varanasi Ganga Aarti timing changes throughout the year with the sunset. In winter, it started around 6 pm. We arrived at 5:30 pm to find a large crowd already gathered.
At the top of the Dashashwamedh Ghat there was a group of Sadhus. Their appearance is quite dramatic with long matted hair and ash covered faces.
Throughout our visit we regularly came across Sadhus or Aghoris, some came across as a little intimidating. To learn more check out: What is a Sadhu?
Our guide led us to a rooftop section adjacent to Dashashwamedh Ghat, reserved for guides and tourists. We had front-row seats, offering the best view of the bustling scene below. Seven stands were being prepared with buckets of flower petals, while the river was alive with boats jostling for position or going about their daily business. The atmosphere was electric.
Priests in robes took their places, and the ceremony began with synchronized movements, holding brass fire lamps in one hand while rhythmically ringing a bell with the other. The crowd joined in, chanting mantras as the air filled with incense. The priests swapped out lamps of different sizes and shapes. Large multi-tiered ones represent various levels of existence and consciousness, connecting the material and spiritual worlds.
As the ceremony continued, people were releasing small floating oil lamps were set adrift on the river, each one a token of gratitude or a release of worries. The smoke from the lamps and incense mingled with the mist, creating an almost otherworldly scene.
Whether or not you’re religious, the experience of an entire city coming together to say thank you and goodnight to the river goddess is profoundly moving.
Return to the Taj Ganges
As the final ringing of the bells faded away, Mr. Kameshwar swiftly guided us through the dense crowds. Thousands of people were trying to squeeze up the uneven steps and narrow streets at the same time, but thanks to our guide’s local knowledge, we zig-zagged through some hidden alleys and quickly emerged onto a main road.
With cars still unable to reach us, we hailed a cycle rickshaw. Our rider was elderly and looked a bit frail, but he impressively maneuvered his vehicle through the bustling streets, even as he struggled up inclines. I couldn’t help but feel like I should be the one cycling him instead! The fare for this ride was ridiculously small, so a generous tip felt more than appropriate.
Back at the hotel, we unwound from the intense energy of the evening over a quiet dinner. The experience of the Ganga Aarti had left us in a reflective mood, and as we settled in for the night, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of anticipation for what the next morning would bring.
Day 2: Dawn on the Ganges
We kicked off Day 2 with a seriously early start. Mr. Kameshwar, ever the energetic guide, whisked us back down to the riverbank. Even though the crowds from the night before had dispersed, Dashashwamedh Ghat was still buzzing with life. The dawn light, mingling with the misty waters, created an almost magical atmosphere.
As we made our way closer, we saw priests huddled under umbrellas, sharing wisdom and guidance with the faithful about the proper rituals to follow while bathing in the sacred Ganges. Nearby, people were gently releasing floating candles into the river, each one carrying their hopes, prayers, and gratitude straight to the goddess Ganga herself.
The boatmen, ever so eager, were encouraging tourists and pilgrims alike to take a ride—either to the quieter “other bank” or down the river for a more extended cruise.
Now, here’s a bit of mythology for you: according to Hindu legends, this very spot is where Brahma welcomed Shiva to Varanasi by performing the Dashashwamedha Yajna—a ritual that involved sacrificing ten horses. This ritual symbolizes the spiritual journey of surrendering all desires, possessions, and ego to achieve Moksha, or spiritual liberation. Don’t worry, though—animal sacrifices are definitely a thing of the past!
Taking to the water
Mr. Kameshwar had already arranged a boat for us (talk about planning ahead!), so off we went without delay. The view of Varanasi from the water as daylight slowly crept in was just as enchanting as it was the night before, but in a totally different way. The western bank was lined with ghats as far as the eye could see, each one with a story to tell. These ghats stretch on for several kilometres, and almost all of them are backed by grand historic mansions built by the families or communities that founded the ghats centuries ago.
As we glided along, moving a few hundred meters upstream from Dashashwamedh Ghat, the bustling activity started to thin out. There’s something incredibly calming about drifting away from the chaos of the most holy ghat, where the energy is almost palpable, and finding yourself enveloped in the peace and solitude that the river offers further upstream.
Some ghats were completely deserted, while others had just a few early risers—perhaps a lone figure deep in meditation, a small group performing yoga, or someone quietly offering their prayers. The tranquillity was almost tangible.
We also passed by both of Varanasi’s famous cremation ghats. First up was Harishchandra Ghat, the smaller of the two, which is also home to a modern electric crematorium.
Then, just a little further downstream, we came upon Manikarnika Ghat—the most sacred cremation ground in all of Hinduism. Both were relatively quiet, but the sacred fire at Manikarnika Ghat was still burning brightly, overseeing the piles of mango wood being restocked for another day of helping souls on their journey to Moksha.
Story of Manikarnika Ghat
Manikarnika, meaning “Jewel of the Ear,” is believed to be the spot where a jewel from Parvati’s ear fell while Lord Shiva was performing his Tandava—a divine dance meant to end one cycle of the cosmos and prepare for the next.
As our peaceful river cruise neared its end, Mr. Kameshwar brought out two small floating diya candles for us. In a steady current, far from the main city, he invited us to release them into the river. We watched as our offerings danced in the water, slowly coming together before drifting downstream. In that moment, I felt an overwhelming sense of gratitude—for my life, for Sinead, and for the privilege of spending this morning in such an extraordinary place.
Breakfast Back at the Taj Ganges
By the time we got back to the hotel, it honestly felt like we’d already had a full day of sightseeing, and yet it wasn’t even 9 AM! We refuelled, including a couple of strong coffees and headed back out, this time directly towards the Manikarnika Ghat, eager to see what more Varanasi had in store for us.
Varanasi Old City on Foot
Manikarnika Ghat
By mid-morning, we found ourselves back at Manikarnika Ghat, and wow, what a difference a few hours make! The city—and the ghat—had truly come alive since our peaceful cruise earlier.
Manikarnika Ghat is no ordinary place. It’s believed that Lord Shiva himself entrusted the Dom community with the guardianship of the eternal flame here and the responsibility of performing cremation rituals, which includes the weighing of the right amount of wood. This sacred duty has been passed down through generations for thousands of years, and even today, the Doms are busy ensuring that everything runs smoothly.
Historically, the Doms were part of the lower caste system, but their crucial role has earned them significant respect. Near the ghat, you’ll spot the Dom Raja’s palace—a prominent building that serves as both a residence and an administrative centre.
As we walked around, it quickly became apparent that Sinead was the only woman at the ghat. All the groups of mourners were male. When we asked Kameshwar about it, he explained that women typically don’t attend because they might get emotional, which could prevent the deceased from achieving Moksha.
At that point, we started feeling a bit out of place. Not because anyone made us feel unwelcome—in fact, everyone was very kind—but because we were conscious of being tourists in such a sacred and solemn place. So, we decided it was best to move on.
To understand more about why Varanasi is so closely associated with cremation, check out: Why Get Cremated in Varanasi?
The Maze of Varanasi Old Town
Just behind the ghats is a warren of narrow alleyways that seem to twist and turn in every direction. These streets are mostly pedestrian-only due to their size, and walking through them felt like stepping back in time. It’s easy to imagine how these scenes must have looked a hundred, five hundred, or even a thousand years ago—at least until a two-wheeler zooms past, reminding you that it’s still the 21st century!
Some of these streets are clearly commercial, with shops selling religious items like Rudraksha beads and incense. As we meandered through, I found myself once again grateful for Kameshwar’s guidance—without him, we could easily have spent hours getting lost in this labyrinth.
We started to notice the variety of architecture, with small temples tucked in between commercial and residential buildings. Over the centuries, it seems that construction has gradually encroached on these temples to the point where it’s nearly impossible to know how many temples actually exist within these narrow lanes. Unsurprisingly, most of them are dedicated to Shiva, given the city’s strong connection to this deity. We visited a couple of them, and while the experience was familiar to us after visiting other temples across India, it still carried a unique charm in this ancient setting.
Kashi Vishwanath Corridor
Eventually, we emerged from the maze onto a surprisingly wide and open promenade—welcome to the newly built Kashi Vishwanath Corridor. Opened just a few months ago, the corridor feels brand new, a stark contrast to the old town we had just wandered through.
This ambitious and somewhat controversial project created a direct connection between the Kashi Vishwanath Temple and the Ganges, making it much easier for pilgrims to access the most revered temple in Varanasi. The controversy stems from the fact that a significant portion of the old city had to be cleared to make way for this development. Along the corridor, you’ll find small temples dotted around—those that could be saved from demolition.
We decided not to enter the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, partly because when we were there the process for foreigners involves a long registration and the surrender of passports.
We admired it from the outside. The original temple is believed to have stood here over 3,000 years ago, and although it’s been reconstructed multiple times due to its tumultuous history, the current temple, built in 1780, is distinctive with its gold domes.
Gyanvapi Mosque
Not far from the temple, we encountered the Gyanvapi Mosque—a poignant reminder of Varanasi’s complex and layered history. Built in 1669 when the Mughals ruled the city, this mosque stands on the foundations of the temple that was destroyed during that time.
The sight of the mosque juxtaposed against the ancient temples is striking, drawing a parallel with other ancient cities around the world where religions have intertwined, sometimes peacefully, sometimes not—Jerusalem comes to mind.
There’s a strong police presence in the area to ensure the safety and security of all visitors. Also, note that photography is strictly prohibited near either site, which is why you won’t find any close up photos in this post.
Lunch: Hotel Restaurant
By this time, we were ready for a break, so we headed back to the hotel for a well-deserved lunch. The morning had been an incredible journey through Varanasi’s history and spirituality, and we were eager to recharge before our next adventure.
Afternoon – Researching Varanasi’s Glass Bead Industry
At this point in the usual Varanasi tour, most people would head off to one of the silk weaving villages to see the famous Banarasi Saree being made. If you’ve never seen silk weaving I’m sure that would be fascinating. But we had a different plan in mind. We had asked Mr. Kameshwar to take us on a little detour to explore another of Varanasi’s ancient crafts: glass bead making.
Now, there’s a bit of a backstory here!
Back in Bengaluru, Sinead has been deeply involved with a few charities through the International Club of Bangalore, working with their fantastic charity team. (Keep an eye out for future blog posts on these organizations and how you can get involved!) One of the charities close to her heart is Vision India, a residential facility dedicated to rehabilitating abandoned and vagrant women, many of whom face significant mental health challenges. It’s a truly inspiring organization.
In a personal capacity, Sinead has been keen to find ways to engage the ladies at Vision India. One idea she came up with was jewellery making, which turned out to be a big hit as part of their therapeutic sessions. The women enjoyed it so much that Sinead wanted to take things up a notch, swapping out the basic wooden beads they started with for something a bit more special. Possibly even generate a new source of income for the charity.
So, with this mission in mind, Mr. Kameshwar led us to a large, rather unassuming building in town. The first and second floors were event venues, but the top floor? A treasure trove of glass beads, all neatly displayed in vats, just begging to be browsed.
Varanasi Beads in Venice
It turns out the owner, an acquaintance of Kameshwar, used to run a thriving international bead exporting business. To our amazement, one of his biggest clients had been Venice—yes, that Venice! Apparently, he used to ship a container of “Venetian” beads every month. Who knew that the Venetian glass bracelet I bought Sinead in 2011 might have originated right here in Varanasi?
The 2007 financial crash and the rise of cheaper mass production in China took a toll on the Indian bead industry. The owner had since converted the two floors into event spaces and kept the top floor as a sort of homage to the once-bustling bead business.
We couldn’t resist picking up a few bags of beautiful beads, but in the end, we realized that the supply consistency and cost didn’t quite fit what we needed for the Vision India project. So, the search continued!
Mother India: A Unique Varanasi Temple
After our bead adventure, we decided to visit the Mother India Temple, a one-of-a-kind site inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi. The idea behind this temple, built in the pre-independence era, was to inspire a sense of patriotism that transcends religion, focusing instead on the nation as a whole.
The standout feature here is the huge marble map of India that dominates the floor. What really struck me about this three-dimensional representation of pre-partition India was the sheer scale of the Himalayas. The way they create a visible, abrupt wall across the north of the nation is something straight out of Game of Thrones!
There isn’t much else to see in the temple, but it does offer a fascinating perspective on the ideas that helped shape India’s sense of unity and national pride.
Adventuring on Our Own
Not wanting to offend Mr. Kameshwar by asking him to take us to yet another bead wholesaler, we made our excuses and claimed we needed a bit of rest before the evening boat cruise. But, of course, that didn’t last long! After being dropped off at our hotel, we set out again on our own little bead-hunting adventure.
Armed with Google Maps and full of confidence, we hopped into an auto-rickshaw and headed toward the location I had researched beforehand. But, as luck would have it, I managed to get us completely lost! The folks at the warehouse had to send someone to find us, leading us through narrow alleys lined with houses coated in cow dung (which, as it turns out, is great for insulation, a natural mosquito repellent, and auspicious due to the cow’s sacred status).
Eventually, we made it to a surprisingly large and modern warehouse. Inside, everything was super organized and well laid out. The owner gave us a tour and explained that all their beads were sourced locally. We were hugely impressed—and still use their beads to this day!
After our little adventure, we headed back to the hotel, ready for the next part of our Varanasi journey: the evening boat cruise.
Banaras Hindu University
En route, we drove through the sprawling campus of Banaras Hindu University (BHU), one of India’s oldest and most prestigious universities. Located on the edge of the city, BHU’s campus is an impressive mix of grand old faculty buildings, modern accommodations, and recreation facilities.
Our destination within the campus was the Shri Vishwanath Temple, a prominent landmark that shares its name with the famous Kashi Vishwanath Temple in the city. This temple is considered a spiritual counterpart, particularly for students and faculty at BHU. Even on a Saturday night students and locals alike were flocking to the temple for their evening prayers.
Ganges Boat Cruise
We recommend booking through Alaknanda Cruise, and you can’t go wrong with either the Bhagirathi or Alaknanda cruise. This journey takes you past every ghat in Varanasi and includes a special pause to witness the Ganga Aarti from the river—an experience that compliments last night’s perspective.
As the boat glides along the river, you’ll recognize many of the sites from earlier in the day, but seeing them at night is something else entirely. The cremation ghats, in particular, take on a different aura in the dark. The sacred Shiva flame burns strong, and unique to Varanasi, cremations here continue even after sunset.
By this point, our early start was beginning to catch up with us. After the cruise, we headed back to the hotel.
Day 3: Sarnath
Sarnath is where Buddha delivered his first sermon and setting in motion the wheel of Dharma – which is the most important symbol of Buddhusm. Alongside Bodh Gaya, Kushinagar and Lumbini (Nepal), Sarnath comprises the Four Great Places – the holiest sites in Buddhism.
What’s remarkable is that one of the holiest sites in Buddhism is just 10 kilometres away from one of the holiest Hindu sites, Varanasi. Despite their physical proximity, the two locations feel worlds apart. Sarnath, with its wide-open spaces and serene atmosphere, was a stark contrast to the bustling, vibrant energy of Varanasi. It never felt particularly crowded, and the visitors were noticeably different—busloads of East Asian tourists on the Buddhist circuit, who, judging by their absence in Varanasi, seemed to be sticking strictly to the pilgrimage route.
Sarnath Temple
We started our day at the Sarnath Temple, a relatively new structure built in the 1930s. Despite its modernity, it was a great introduction to Buddhism for us. The temple’s most notable feature is its frescoes, painted by a Japanese artist, and you can clearly see the Far Eastern influence throughout Sarnath.
I have to admit, until now, I hadn’t fully understood the foundations of Buddhism. The frescoes offered a pictorial education: a prince, born into a sheltered life in a traditional Hindu family, becomes deeply shocked when he’s exposed to the suffering in the world. He leaves behind his family, his entitlement, his possessions—even his birth name—and sets out on a journey to find enlightenment. In doing so, he rejects the ritualism of Hinduism and takes on the name Buddha.
This is the point where Buddhism emerged as a distinct and separate religion from Hinduism, even though it shares a common cultural context. Buddhism spread throughout India in the 2nd and 3rd centuries BC and then into Sri Lanka and Southeast Asia from the 1st to 3rd centuries AD.
Why is Buddhism more prevalent across Asia than in India?
Kameshwar had the answer: Buddhism’s ideas, such as Ahimsa (non-violence) and meditation, were incorporated into Hindu philosophy. Buddha himself is even recognized as an avatar of Vishnu in Hinduism. With such close intertwining, there was no need for separate Buddhist institutions in India, so popular support for Buddhism gradually waned. Clever and effective strategy, right? I’m sure this view isn’t held in strongly Buddhist countries outside India, but it was fascinating to learn.
I’ve found that having a basic appreciation of the Hindu gods and goddesses really helps in understanding both sightseeing and daily life here in India. If you’re interested in a quick primer, you can check out this resource.
The Bodhi Tree in Sarnath
Next up was a visit to the Bodhi Tree in Sarnath. The Buddha attained enlightenment under the Bodhi Tree in Bodh Gaya, and the tree you see here is a direct descendant, a sapling of that very tree. It’s regarded as a living symbol of enlightenment.
Inside the peaceful, small temple that surrounds the tree, we found people deep in meditation, adding to the calm, reflective atmosphere of the site. Surrounding the complex are rows of prayer wheels and a large bronze bell, gifted to Sarnath by the Japanese as a symbol of peace and friendship.
Dhamek Stupa
The Dhamek Stupa is the most prominent structure in Sarnath, marking the spot where it’s believed Buddha delivered his first sermon. A stupa, in Buddhist tradition, is a significant religious monument that houses sacred relics. The Dhamek Stupa is believed to have been built around 500 AD on this site, perhaps incorporating a smaller stupa originally constructed by Ashoka.
The sheer size and significance of the Dhamek Stupa made it one of the highlights of Sarnath. Standing before it, you can almost feel the weight of history that continues to draw pilgrims and visitors alike.
Many of the monuments and ruins here have gold foil rubbed into the stone. This is an act of devotion from pilgrims to show respect for the veneration of the Buddha and his teachings. This gesture can also contribute to the devotees own spiritual growth and lead to better rebirths in the future.
Sarnath Deer Park
Surrounding the Dhamek Stupa is the Deer Park, a place with a name that carries an ancient story. According to Buddhist lore, a Golden Deer once offered to sacrifice its own life to save a pregnant doe trapped by a king’s hunting party. The king, touched by the deer’s virtue and selflessness, vowed to protect all animals in his kingdom. Sarnath itself takes its name from Sanskrit, meaning “Lord of the Deer.”
The ruins scattered throughout the park are the result of 19th-century excavations that unearthed the remains of Emperor Ashoka’s city. Ashoka was instrumental in spreading Buddhism in the 3rd century BC.
One of the key discoveries here was the Ashoka Pillar, topped with the Lion Capital, which is now the national emblem of India. The Lion Capital itself is now on display in the Sarnath Archaeological Museum.
Sarnath Archaeological Museum
Our final stop was the Sarnath Archaeological Museum, one of the Archaeological Survey of India’s oldest museums. Fittingly located here where the ASI’s founder, Alexander Cunningham, was the same person who excavated the ruins in Sarnath.
The standout attraction inside the museum is, without a doubt, the Lion Capital of Ashoka. Those four lions are instantly recognizable from official documents and banknotes, but seeing the actual artifact up close was something else. It’s in fantastic condition, and it really brings home the rich cultural heritage of this region.
Just a quick note: bags, cameras, and phones aren’t allowed inside the museum. For more details on what you can see there, Wikipedia is a great resource: Sarnath Museum.
Wrapping Up: A Journey to Remember
As our time in Varanasi and Sarnath came to an end, we found ourselves reflecting on the whirlwind of experiences we’d packed into just a few days. From the mystical ghats of Varanasi to the serene grounds of Sarnath, this has been one of those extraordinary experiences that India throws up. A demonstration of the rich tapestry of cultures, religions, and histories that make India such a unique place to explore.
