Carving Through Time: A Journey to Ajanta and Ellora Caves
To inspire our regular long weekend getaways from Bengaluru, we’ve been using a reference list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in India. There are 42 of them, and honestly, before diving into that list, I had never heard of the Ellora and Ajanta Caves. Without this opportunity to live in India, I can confidently say these incredible sites would never have made it onto our bucket list.
I’m so glad they did! These caves don’t just offer a peek into India’s ancient past—they reveal a mind-blowing scale of carving and excavation, showcasing impressive artistic craftsmanship. The intricate details, particularly the way human figures are portrayed with such subtle emotion, show just how advanced Indian artistry was all those centuries ago.
Arrival
Both cave complexes are close enough to Aurangabad to make it a convenient base. Its airport is decently connected to major Indian cities, and we had a direct flight from Bengaluru, arriving in the early evening.
We had pre-booked a guide and car, something I’d highly recommend. Ajanta is about 100 km from Aurangabad and Ellora is 30 km, so having transport and a guide rolled into one package saved us loads of time and effort. Our guide, Pranav, not only had the facts, but kept us entertained with local stories and anecdotes during the drive.
Aurangabad itself? It’s fine—nothing remarkable. Pranav was quite open about how grateful he is for the caves because, let’s be honest, they’re the main reason tourists come to this city. That said, he proudly pointed out that Aurangabad is modernizing – the evidence is that you can now buy a pizza in the city!
We stayed at the Vivanta Aurangabad. It’s a grand old building, slightly showing its age, but the Taj hospitality was top-notch. The hotel is practically next door to the Institute of Hotel Management, which explains the enthusiasm of the staff—they’re fresh graduates starting out their careers here. I applaud the Taj group for giving those opportunities.
It was dark when we arrived at the hotel and hence time for dinner and an early night.
Ajanta Caves
We kicked off the next day with an early start, since Ajanta is about a two-and-a-half-hour drive. When we got close, Pranav asked if we wanted to approach on foot, taking a walk through the forest. Naturally, we jumped at the chance, though he seemed a little surprised—apparently not many people opt for this route. But trust me, it’s worth it.
The Approach on Foot
The walk was mostly downhill, winding through a lush forest where monkeys played among the tamarind and mango trees. Every now and then, we caught glimpses of the cave complex, which gave us a real sense of just how massive a feat it was to carve into this ridge of basalt and granite. It’s easy to see how these caves could’ve been hidden under layers of forest for hundreds of years, only to be rediscovered by chance about 200 years ago.
Along the way, a young boy, walking his goats, joined us. He had three, one on a string leash! We didn’t speak Marathi, and he didn’t speak English, but by the time we reached the bottom of the hill, we were all friends—goats included! It’s these random encounters that make me love traveling in India. The historical wonders are the backdrop, but the real magic is the openness and wonder in the people you meet.
Halfway down, we passed an elderly woman selling sliced cucumbers dusted with chili salt—perfect on an increasingly warm morning. Even though we didn’t see any other tourists on this route, and she probably has a tough gig, we bought quite a few. Did we eat them? Well, no—we didn’t want to risk any stomach issues—but Pranav and the boy and his goats enjoyed them!
The Cave Complex
The Ajanta Cave complex consists of 29 rock-cut caves, carved into a sheer granite cliff. These caves primarily serve religious purposes, with an emphasis on Buddhist art and worship, though a few later ones show Hindu influences. Many of the caves are monastic halls (viharas) or prayer halls (chaityas), adorned with vibrant frescoes, statues, and carvings. Not all caves are accessible today, and a few remain unfinished, but the ones open to visitors offer a breathtaking glimpse into ancient art and architecture. Below are some of the must-see caves.
Cave 1 & Cave 2: The Storytellers of Buddha’s Life
These two caves are celebrated for their frescoes that depict scenes from the life of the Buddha and the Jataka tales, stories about his previous lives. Cave 1 is particularly renowned for the iconic murals of Bodhisattva Padmapani and Vajrapani.
Cave 10: A Sad Tale of Graffiti
This is one of the oldest chaityas at Ajanta, dating back to the 2nd century BCE. It houses a large stupa in the centre, meant for meditative worship.
This was also the first cave rediscovered in 1819 by British officer John Smith during a tiger-hunting expedition. By chance he stumped upon the entrance which had been hidden by forest growth and he marked his “discovery” by carving his name and the date—April 28, 1819—into one of the ancient frescoes, still visible today. Sadly, over the years, many other visitors followed suit, scraping their names and messages onto the walls.
Cave 19: A Grand Prayer Hall
An impressive chaitya hall with a stunningly ornate facade and intricate carvings. A large standing statue of the Buddha dominates the interior, representing the moment when he delivered his first sermon at Sarnath. The entrance is adorned with carved figures and floral motifs, which reflect the artistic transition towards more elaborate Buddhist architecture. The high-vaulted ceiling mimics the design of wooden beams, showing how artisans blended stone carving with traditional architectural styles.
Cave 26: The Reclining Buddha and the Temptation by Mara
Cave 26 is one of the most dramatic and spiritually moving caves at Ajanta. It features a massive reclining Buddha, representing the moment he entered final enlightenment and passed into nirvana. This sculpture is one of the highlights of the entire complex, with fine details that convey both the peace and transcendence of the Buddha.
Another captivating carving here is “The Temptation of Buddha”, which depicts the demon Mara and his daughters attempting to distract the Buddha with worldly temptations.
When we arrived at this cave, it was bustling with tourists. A large group of Buddhist monks had gathered inside and were performing a chant. The sound reverberating through the space made the experience surreal, transporting me back in time to imagine how these caves might have felt two millennia ago when they were first active.
Lunch
After exploring, we stopped for lunch at a roadside restaurant. I wish I could remember the name—it served the best Dal Tadka we’ve ever had! If you find yourself in a clean, tourist-friendly restaurant near the caves, order the Dal Tadka with burnt garlic. And if it’s as delicious as I remember, please tell me the name of the place!
Evening in Aurangabad
After the return trip into Aurangabad we simply spent the time relaxing at the hotel, the pool was welcome! Had an early dinner, which was good and an early night.
Day 2 – Ellora
Taj of the Deccan
On our way to Ellora, we made a quick stop at Bibi Ka Maqbara, a small version of the Taj Mahal. It was built around 1660 by Aurangzeb’s (the Mughal emperor who can Aurangabad it’s name) son in memory of his mother. While it’s much smaller than the Taj Mahal, and only it’s dome is made of marble, it’s still a lovely photo-op and deserves its nickname as the “Taj of the Deccan.”
What is the “Deccan”? – click here to find out
Ellora Caves
The Ellora Caves offer a completely different experience from Ajanta. While Ajanta was mostly carved into the cliffs horizontally, Ellora’s structures were often excavated from the top down. Imagine the effort—artisans here began at the top of the rock face and worked their way down, removing unwanted material until only their envisioned temple or shrine remained. The result is 34 caves, showcasing a blend of Hindu, Buddhist, and Jain architecture.
Cave 16: The Kailasa Temple
The Kailasa Temple was the absolute highlight of whole trip.
It is one of the largest monolithic structures in the world, entirely carved from a single block of basalt. Constructed in the 8th century, it’s dedicated to Lord Shiva and covers an area twice the size of Athens’ Parthenon, rising 30 meters tall.
The sheer scale of this structure is mind-boggling. Imagine generations of workers spending over 100 years carving away millions of tons of rock, knowing that they would never see intricate final carvings their descendants would one day complete. It’s a testament to the extraordinary foresight, planning, and organisation required for such a feat.
I highly recommend walking up and around the back of the temple. From there, you can look down on the entire complex—a view that gives you a real sense of its architectural genius and scale.
Of particular interest, inside the complex, are the panels depicting scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. These detailed carvings bring the stories to life:
- In the Ramayana panels, you’ll see highlights such as Rama and Sita’s wedding, Sita’s abduction by Ravana, and the climactic battle featuring Hanuman.
- The Mahabharata panels depict key moments from the Kurukshetra war and the Pandavas’ victory.
There is also the scene of Ravana, the demon king, trying to lift Mount Kailash – the home of Shiva. Mount Kailash clearly being the inspiration behind this temple’s name.
And if the temple seems familiar, that’s because it’s also featured on the ₹20 note!
The Hindu Caves: Caves 13–29
Created between the 7th and 9th centuries, decorated with the usual selection of deities. Cave 29, with impressive dedications to Ganga, and Cave 21 are the two others worth making sure you see.
The Buddhist Caves: Caves 1–12
These caves, carved between the 6th and 7th centuries, include monasteries (viharas) with living quarters, stupas, and sculptures of the Buddha. Notable caves include:
- Cave 10: The Vishvakarma Cave (Buddhist): This chaitya (prayer hall), also known as the Carpenter’s Cave, is the most prominent Buddhist cave at Ellora. Dedicated to Vishvakarma, the divine craftsman, it’s famous for its rock-cut arches that replicate the look of wooden beams.
- Cave 5: A large monastery with spacious halls, suggesting it may have been used for group activities or teaching.
- Cave 12: A three-story vihara, showing the growing complexity of Buddhist architecture at Ellora.
The Jain Caves: Caves 30-34
Constructed between the 9th and 10th centuries these are the most recent.
Cave 32, known as Indra Sabha, is the standout. As is typical for Jain temples, elephants flank the entrance, symbolizing strength and protection.
The central shrine here is dedicated to Mahavira, the 24th Tirthankara of Jainism.
Why Are These Caves Here?
The basalt cliffs here were ideal for carving—tough and long-lasting, even though they’re hard to work with. And like Ajanta, Ellora is situated along ancient trade routes, making it a prime location for such grand undertakings.
Departure
On leaving Ellora we returned directly to the airport. It was a “full on” two days but we are grateful for our education on these timeless reminders of human artistry, spirituality, and determination.
